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              The Cornhill Magazine 

         - Vol. 156 - July to Dec. 1937 - page 588

 

THE DRUG SMUGGLERS, OF EGYPT.

BY C. S. JARVIS.

In the early part of the nineteenth century, during the Napoleonic wars and for some thirty years afterwards, it is said that every English Channel fisherman was a smuggler when the opportunity offered, and many of them in fact made their own opportunities and were fishermen only as a blind to their real calling.  The Preventive forces were faced with two very grave difficulties : the Deal and other coast-town fishermen possessed such fast and handy craft that it was impossible to devise anything propelled by wind to outsail them, and every inhabitant of these fishing villages was definitely pro-smuggler and anti-Prevendon.

 

Very much the same state of affairs has existed in the deserts of Egypt for the last thirty to forty years, as every nomad Arab of the deserts is a potential smuggler and most of them possess exceedingly fast-trotting 'nagas ' (she-camels) that can outstrip the Government animals ; and it goes without saying that every member of the tribes is lock, stock, and barrel with the contrabandists and not particularly helpful to the police.  The Arab also has a definite advantage over the Channel fisherman of a hundred years ago, for the commodity in which -he deals is the light and easily transported drug, hashish, and a ten-pound load of this is all that he need carry to make a handsome profit, whereas the British smuggler, if the run was to be a financial success, had to deal in heavy goods such as casks of brandy and wine.

 

The hashish which the inhabitants of the Nile Valley use is a product of the hemp and when manufactured provides a narcotic that, smoked in a pipe or drunk mixed with coffee, has both a stimulating and soporific effect.  That is to say, the consumer experiences a feeling of well-being and all his cares and fatigue slip away from his shoulders, while the world for the time being seems a much brighter and more satisfactory place in which to live.  The following morning there is, of course, the resulting 'hangover,' and the hashish head is of a very much fatter and more painful variety than that provided by whisky or champagne, or even a mixture of the two, which, on the principle of 'grape on grape and malt on malt,' is the worst thing one can do; but the prospect of the 'hangover' has never yet proved efficacious as a deterrent.

 

Hashish in moderation did very little permanent harm, but heavy smokers became affected in time, the drug causing dullness and stupidity and in extreme cases insanity, and so the Egyptian Government prohibited its import and use absolutely.  One of the results of this was that in the years immediately after the War the 'white drugs,' cocaine, heroin, etc., were introduced into the country and immediately became most popular, so that an alarming proportion of the population became confirmed addicts.  The white drug is a very much easier commodity to smuggle than hashish as, being of considerable value, a minute parcel only need be carried to make a trafficking expedition a success, and most of this smuggling was carried out at the three big ports of Egypt---Alexandria, Port Said, and Suez.  Every available device was employed, from the simple method of dropping a package from a ship's side into a waiting, boat, to concealing the drug in ordinary merchandise and passing it through Customs.  Heroin was hidden in every known commodity, from the legs of chairs to the heels of shoes, from sacks of rice to bottles of beer; a particularly disgraceful episode being the arrest of a senior Consular official of a Great Power attempting to land at Alexandria with a despatch-case, normally immune from Customs inspection, which was found to be filled not with State papers but with packages of drugs.

 

It is exceedingly difficult to deal with an evil of this description when a successful run with one small suit-case is sufficient to supply a city as large as Cairo with its normal demand for one week, and the profits in the trade were further increased by the adulteration of the drug with boracic or rice powder on arrival.  One of the few cases on record where adulteration, so far from being a misdemeanour, becomes almost a righteous act.  The trade was finally stopped or reduced to quite reasonable proportions by the Commandant of the Cairo Police who, being charged with the task of dealing with the situation, did what no man has ever done before-he got up on his feet at Geneva and told the League of Nations the stark and lamentable truth.  He said very plainly that certain countries, not addicted to white drugs themselves, were producing enormous quantities of heroin and cocaine and shipping them to smaller states regardless of the fact that they were utterly ruining the people of those small states.  He not only named those countries responsible, but he produced documentary and irrefutable evidence.  It was all very painful and regrettable, for this Police Officer did not understand the correct technique to be observed at Geneva, where the rule is that the truth should be so discreetly veiled and distorted that no one can recognise it.  He was, however, quite unrepentant and irreconcilable, and after two or three more cold douches of the unvarnished truth the delegates concerned at the League took such steps that further deplorable episodes were unnecessary, and the white drug traffic to all intents and purposes ceased.

 

There remained, however, the smuggling of hashish, and attempts to stop this are very much like amateurish efforts at damming a stream with earth---immediately one has stopped up one weak spot, the water breaks through in another place.  It is quite impossible for Egypt with her lengthy frontiers to maintain a water-tight system of patrols and barriers on every length of coast or mile of desert where hashish might be run, and so there is a constant game of chess between the contrabandists and anti-contrabandists, the smugglers moving their knights and pawns to any open spaces on the Government's chess-board of defence, and the Police and Coastguards countering the moves by redistribution of their pieces.

 

If the Sinai Camel Police become too vigilant and energetic there is a sudden cessation of runs across the Peninsula, but no falling off in the supply of the drug in Cairo and the cities, and then it transpires that the smuggling fraternity are sending hashish down the Gulf of Akaba by launch or sailing boat and transhipping it to the boats of the Suez fishermen at the apex of the Peninsula.  Alternatively, small steamers may carry a load to the desert west of Alexandria and hand it over to camelmen there, or the deserted sea marshes of Damietta may be used for landings, for which they are eminently suitable.

 

When hashish is carried by sea it is usually placed in waterproof or rubber bags and each parcel is made fast to a small sack of salt.  The reason for this is that if the boat carrying the drug should be chased by a coastguard cruiser or launch the cargo is dropped overboard.  The weight of the bag of salt will cause it to sink at once, but in two days' time, when the salt has disintegrated in the water, the bags will rise to the surface again, to be picked up by the smugglers or their friends who will keep a close look-out in the area.

 

The most exciting smuggling episodes, however, occur in Sinai, where the contrabandists have to run the drug by camel across a hundred and fifty miles of desert, most of which is broken gravel and limestone plateau with thirty miles of sand dunes immediately bordering on the Suez Canal.  The drug comes from Syria and is transported to Southern Palestine either by boat, motor-car, or on camels or donkeys.  The Palestinians as a race are not addicted to hashish and therefore the trade does not concern Palestine to any great extent.  The police of that country have their hands fairly full at all times and cannot be expected to take a vast interest in the transport of a drug not intended for their own country.  Actually many seizures are made, but as the Egyptian Government are too short-sighted to encourage them by paying the same rewards to the Palestine Police as they do to their own forces, there is really no reason why the authorities should exert themselves in any way over a contraband trade that does not actively harm their own country.

 

The organisation concerned with hashish smuggling consists of three parties : the Big Men, or 'Drug Barons,' who provide the funds and reap most of the profits ; the middlemen who organise the runs and engage the Arabs. and the ordinary Arab camelmen.  The only people likely to be caught are the Arab smugglers, who may possibly be able to identify the middlemen later but who know nothing of the big financial powers at the head of affairs.  The result is that, though evidence can sometimes be obtained to arrive at the conviction of one of the liaison men, the real brains and backing of the trade are seldom if ever caught.

 

Some ten years ago the smugglers were in the habit of running the hashish across Sinai with armed parties of from ten to fifteen men.  If a police patrol was met with it seldom consisted of more than three privates with a corporal in charge, and so eight smugglers would remain behind and keep up a sustained fire with rifles on the patrol whilst the remainder of the party hurried on towards the Canal, where the drug was buried till arrangements could be made to swim it across.  One could hardly expect four men perched up on camels and moving at a jog-trot across the open to advance very energetically through a hail of bullets fired at them by marksmen hiding behind rocks.  The police were paid only £2 105. a month and the reward for the capture of hashish was a miserable four shillings a kilo, the real value of which was in the neighborhood of £25.  Under these conditions one did not look for ' deeds that made the Empire's name,' and the police usually satisfied honour by following the party at a discreet distance and doing their best later to locate the buried hashish on the Canal bank.

 

Then the police force was reorganised and the majority of the men in the Peninsula were stationed at various posts in Central Sinai, so that when the alarm was rung up on the telephone upwards of eighty men could converge on the smugglers from all points of the compass.  At this stage of the proceedings the smugglers' secret service must have been at fault, or long inununity from serious attack had made them contemptuous of the police, for a run of sixteen camels with ten men started out from the Palestine frontier shortly after the new dispositions had been completed.

 

If the smugglers' contempt of the new grouping of the police was justified, their omission to acquaint themselves with another and more human factor affecting the elan of the anti-contrabandist forces showed a very surprising ignorance of human nature on their part.  There happened to be several vacancies for noncommissioned officers of all ranks in the police force and word had gone forth that in making the necessary promotions the zeal shown in action against the smugglers would be taken into consideration.  Moreover, the reward for hashish had been trebled and there was in addition a special grant of £10 for every man captured and £5 for his camel.  This put an entirely different complexion on affairs and a policeman was fully entitled to risk his life if three stripes and some £20 in cash was set in the balance against it.

 

The smugglers, A unconscious of the change in the situation, were met by a small patrol some twenty miles north of Kosseima and received the shock of their lives when four men charged their firing-line on racing camels, capturing two of their party and three heavily laden camels after a hand-to-hand fight.  The remainder made off posthaste to the broken country north of Hellal Mountain, but word had gone forth by telephone that smugglers were on the move and their way to the Canal was barred.  Wherever they emerged from the cover of the mountain gorges they saw moving in the low desert either the black head-ropes and white shawls of the, police or the khaki turbans of the Camel Corps, and the Camel Corps were Sudanese ; not a match for the Arabs in brain or cunning, perhaps, but very redoubtable fighters armed with rifle and, unlike the police, with the bayonet also showing always a most regrettable desire to get to close quarters and use that bayonet.

 

Finally the remaining eight men took to the mountains, leaving their camels to be captured by the police, and an epic fight took place among the boulders on the hillsides, in which one policeman and one smuggler were killed and two policemen wounded.  The policeman who was killed showed the most reckless courage; he and three others were lying among the rocks firing at four of the smugglers who were under cover about seventy yards away.  The Corporal in charge of the party, after an exchange of shots lasting a few minutes, was hit through the arm and the policeman, a very black descendant of one of the erstwhile slaves of the Arab tribes, saw away to the flank the man who had fired the bullet.  He sprang to his feet, raced across the open, and shot the smuggler through the head at a distance of five yards.  As he did so he was bit by three bullets from the remaining men, one of which severed his femoral artery, and the gallant fellow died of loss of blood before help could reach him.

 

The whole of this party of Arabs, with their load of hashish, were captured and brought into El Arish, where they were sentenced to long terms of imprisonment, manslaughter figuring on the charges as well as smuggling, and this put an effective end to all attempts to get hashish across Sinai by force of arms.  About this time also the traffic was made even more hazardous for the smugglers by the invention by Dunlops of what is known as the 'Low-Pressure' tyre.  Previous to the invention the car patrols of the Province had been equipped with the ordinary 411-inch covers which were useless in sand, but the new tyres had a tread of 9 inches and were pumped up to a pressure of ten pounds only.  This very simple device meant that the cars could now travel at speed through the sand country east of the Canal where previously the smugglers had had only camel patrols to contend with.

 

For some time after this the Sinai desert was singularly free from hashish runs, which was partly due to the fact that Royalty was being entertained in the Province.  The connection between Royalty and hashish smuggling may not be immediately obvious, but visits of the 'Great' in the special trains offer great opportunities, as on these occasions prying officials are usually so excited about the propinquity of Royalty that the customary close inspection of trains from Palestine is not carried out at Kantara, the Canal terminus.  Actually, however, the lack of attention was not all that the smuggling fraternity hoped, for, though the officials of King Fuad's special train got away with a vast quantity of the smuggled drug, those of the Princess Royal of England and Lord Lloyd, the High Commissioner of Egypt, were not so lucky and their consignments were captured!  As the discovery of hashish in a train means the imprisonment of the man immediately responsible, together with the discharge from the railway service of any official who might in any way be connected with the attempt, the use of the Palestine Railways as a means of conveying hashish never became very popular, though consignments have been found from time to time in such places as the lining of refrigerator waggons, the sand boxes of the engines, and in a small grease receptacle in the vicinity of the buffers.

 

The obvious route across the high plateau of Sinai having become unhealthy, and the rigid search to which all trains were subjected making the use of the Palestine Railways an unprofitable proceeding, there was what one might call a dead silence in the smuggling world, and when a dead silence ensues one may be very certain that a new and easy route has been discovered.  Information came of cars running from Amman in Trans-Jordan to the village of Akaba on the gulf of that name, for no apparent reason, and it transpired that hashish was being shipped from Akaba in boats and landed on the deserted shores on the Sinai side, where it was run through the deep gorges of the granite mountains to the Gulf of Suez, to be handed over to fishermen who transferred it to the western side.  Here a further party of Arabs ran it through the Red Sea mountains to the Nile Valley in the vicinity of Helouan.

 

The trade must have been very extensive, for immediately the patrolling system was altered a large capture was made by the Camel Corps in the desert east of Cairo and the Sinai Police had a very exciting little fight on the Gulf of Suez.  A patrol of six men moving along the shore at night came upon an Arab dhow being laden with hashish; the load had just been placed on board, so the fishermen made the most frantic attempts to push off their boat from the shore whilst the Arabs, who had carried it across the Peninsula, scaled the cliff and opened a heavy fire on the police.

 

The police, knowing they had very little chance of hitting an Arab behind a rock when they had nothing to aim at but the flashes from rifles, very wisely devoted their attention to the boat, which had just been pushed off into deep water.  They fired a volley at it, killing the man who was hoisting the sail, whereupon the crew surrendered and came ashore with over a hundred kilos of the drug.  Leaving two men to guard the boat and prisoners, the remainder of the patrol pushed off after the Arabs and succeeded in capturing two of them with their camels.  The only remarkable part about this episode was that according to the evidence given by the police the Arabs were unarmed when captured but that two rifles were found on the fishermen in the boat.  The police were all so emphatic and so very clear on this point that the real truth was obvious; the fishermen in the boat were, of course, unarmed, and this being so, according to the queer laws of the and-contraband service, the police were only authorised to fire into the air, a fairly fatuous proceeding when the boat full of contraband was pushing off from the shore.  Having disobeyed this order in a very good cause, the sensible thing to do, to avoid any awkward questions, was to get hold of a recently discharged rifle and put it in the boat.  This apparently explained the most energetic hunt after the Arab camelmen as soon as the whole consignment of the drug had been captured, and the very emphatic and oft-reiterated evidence from all the police that most of the firing had come from the boat and not from the Arabs on the cliff-side.  Whatever the rights or wrongs of the case, this smugglers' route lost its popularity after this episode, for the very simple reason that no fishermen could be found who would risk their lives on the Sinai shores for the very inadequate compensation of £1 a head for a boat's crew engaged in the dangerous task of shipping hashish across the Gulf.

 

Then it transpired that the Sinai Arabs were becoming what one might call 'dressy.'  As a race they normally go barefooted except when trekking over rough granite or limestone mountains, when they wear home-made sandals of goatskin---precisely the same form of footwear as that worn by the Patriarchs of the Old Testament.  Those who cherish all the old-time customs of the nomad Arab will be horrified to learn that the goatskin sandal is now rapidly going out of fashion and being replaced by a strip of worn-out Dunlop tyre cover.  It makes a most suitable sole for a nomad's shoe, but at first its use caused a considerable amount of excitement owing to 'car tracks' being seen in places where, by reason of scarps, cliffs and passes, no car could possibly run.  Until the mystery was explained one began to believe in some phantom desert Ford that was haunting the uplands of Sinai and Trans-Jordan after its disintegration on the rough going of the Wilderness.

 

The Arabs of Northern Sinai, however, very seldom wear anything on their feet, as practically the whole of the area in which they move is soft sand or clay, and when, therefore, it was noticed that a large number of very innocent looking nomads were crossing the ferry at Kantara on the Canal wearing rather smart Damascus-made sandals, people began to wonder.  From wondering they advanced to examination, when it was disclosed that the soles of these sandals were not made of leather but of a specially shaped slab of hashish weighing about 3/4 lb., which meant that for some time every individual wearing shoes had been passing the Customs barrier with 1½ lb. of the drug on his feet.  Apparently the 'drug barons' expected this clever ruse to hold good for considerably longer than it did, as hashish, fashioned in the shape of the sole of a sandal, figured in captures for years after the device had been exposed.

 

After the sandal method had failed there was another period of ominous silence on the Sinai front, accompanied by a big drop in the price of the drug in Cairo.  The current price of hashish is easily ascertained, and when there is what financiers call a weakening in the price it is a very sure sign that there is no shortage on the market, and these fluctuations act as a barometer to the anti-contraband officials.

 

Then one day a highly delighted patrol of Sinai Police came in to El Arish, the Province Headquarters, with a large drove of camels and tethered to each mounted patrolman were three Arabs with ropes round their necks.'  The ladies of the village swarmed up on the housetops and, hearing from their police husbands as they passed that three would be 'mukhaffas' (rewards) that day and fat sheep to eat that night, with possibly a gold ornament for a pretty and recent wife, set up their shrill ululations of joy.

 

It appeared that a big drove of 'meat' camels consigned to the butchers of Cairo, had passed the frontier at Rafa as all correct, but at Sheikh Zowaid twelve miles farther on had met a police patrol who had ridden among the drove of camels to make certain there were no parcels of hashish hidden in their loads.  One man, struck by the fine white wool of one of the camels, had gripped a handful of hair by the hump and there had come away in his hand a slab of hashish!  A hole in the thick wool had been carefully clipped out by hair clippers, on to the bare skin of the camel a slab of hashish had been affixed by glue, and on the outer side of the slab the hair had been attached by the same method, the patch being carefully combed over so that no outward signs were visible.

 

Every camel in the drove was carrying six slabs of half a Ho each and, with a reward of £10 a head for every drover, the sale price of the confiscated camels, plus the ordinary monetary payment for the hashish, the small patrol of three men were definitely in the Croesus class for the time being, and there were sounds of great merriment and dancing that night.

 

Nowadays the smuggling fraternity, until they discover some new and cunning device, are running the hashish by means of fast-trotting camels ridden at night with a light load.  By day the smuggler turns his camel loose to graze, while he himself, with the saddle and consignment of hashish, is hidden under a bush.  As there are grazing camels over the greater part of Central Sinai, the idea is that the smuggler's animal will pass as one of the herd.  Against this is the fact that the Sinai Police all have an ' eye for a camel' and can detect the breedy blood-stock type used by the smugglers at a distance of a mile.  If one of these animals is noticed a close examination is made to see if there are recent saddle-marks on the hump and, if there are, a close search of the surrounding bushes will disclose the presence of a very innocent and plausible gentleman sitting on a consignment of the drug.

 

The Arabs who swim the Suez Canal with the hashish are not from the same tribes as those that make the run across the Peninsula.  They are specially selected men from the Ayada tribe whose ' darak ' (area) is on the Canal bank, and they are all very fine and very silent swimmers.  On the western bank of the Canal are stationed Egyptian Coastguards who patrol the whole hundred-mile length, but the swimmers have little difficulty in evading these slow-moving infantrymen.  The smuggler hides in the east bank fill the big searchlight from a passing steamer shows up the patrol waiting on the far side and then, having located the danger-spot, slips into the water and swims across in the wash of the vessel, the noise of the waves drowning any sound he may make.

 

The feeling that exists between the officers of the anti-contraband forces and the smugglers might almost be described as cordial, and their attitude one to the other is rather similar to that which existed between the French and English officers during the Peninsular War.  When there is work afoot it is war to the knife, but between runs a famous Arab smuggler will bandy jokes with members of the police over their failure to capture some big consignment.

 

At the local Agricultural Show which is held at El Arish every year I had complained about the quality of the camels in the 'Hageen' or fast-trotting class and had said they were not up to the standard I had expected.  I was assured by a warrant officer of the police that if I would give my word to c play the game' all the leading smugglers of Sinai would be delighted to come in and show their camels in this class.  In due course a foxy-looking Arab, who had served five years in the local prison for smuggling, was produced and, having assured him that no underhand tricks would be played, there was as the result the most marvellous entry of camels that year.  It was most interesting to see the beautiful breedy animals that were produced and still more interesting to meet their owners, many of whom were old friends, as they had 'done time' in the prison and probably would do so again in the near future.  It struck me as distinctly Gilbertian when at the prize-giving many of the leading smugglers of Egypt came up and received a monetary reward for possessing an animal used exclusively for law-breaking!

 

The only occasion on which a 'drug baron' was convicted for smuggling in Sinai was when a middleman was arrested on the strength of his footprints being detected among a crowd of fishermen and Arabs on the sand of the seashore.  A very big consignment of hashish from Syria had been landed and sixteen Arabs and twelve fishermen were concerned in the run.  The whole load was captured by the police some two days' trek from the coast, and there was nothing really remarkable about the run beyond the fact that the trackers became most excited because among the many footprints at the spot where the hashish was landed were those of a man who always wore shoes.  To an ordinary man this muddled mass of tracks made by bare feet all looked precisely the same, but to the ski trackers the prints left by the Effendi---the gentleman who wore European clothes and shoes normally-stood out as if they had been painted vermilion.  He was not wearing shoes at the time, be it noted, but the fact that he was in the habit of doing so was obvious as the sun in the sky.

 

In due course the gentleman in question was arrested, and proved to be a well-to-do resident of El Arish who always seemed to be in funds although he had no visible means of existence.  The evidence against him was not particularly strong, but there was not the slightest doubt of his guilt as the middleman who had arranged all details of the run.  A senior Egyptian officer of the police, realising that here was a chance to get at the big men of the drug traffic, had this prisoner up to his house on several nights whilst awaiting trial and, having dwelt on the extreme severity of the sentence he would receive, ultimately obtained a full confession and also a promise to assist in the conviction of the real owners of the drug.

 

A letter was written by the middleman to his employer in Cairo stating---untruthfully---that, although the majority of the hashish had been captured by the police, the smugglers had managed to bury about a hundred kilos, and instructions as to how this was to be disposed of were asked.  This letter the middleman smuggled out of prison in the ordinary way and was in due course delivered to the ' drug baron' in Cairo.  He was a member of the El Azhar mosque, a man of unblemished character and great sanctity, but he was also as artful as a fox and seldom if ever wrote a letter himself. Luckily for the anti-contrabandist forces, however, this scribbled note from El Arish prison appeared to be so absolutely genuine that he allowed his avarice to get the better of his caution.  He wrote a reply upbraiding his henchman for losing so much of his hashish and gave minute instructions as to the disposal of the remainder.  Three days later, as he sat in his accustomed seat at his favourite cafe, holding forth on religious observances, he was tapped on the shoulder and immediately surrounded by half a dozen armed police officers who hustled him into a waiting motor-car.

 

The incriminating letter was quite sufficient to obtain a conviction and he was awarded three years' imprisonment and a fine of £3,000.  One had very little sympathy for the fat, oily creature, for, though loyalty is the keynote of the smuggling fraternity and unhappy, impoverished Arabs who earn but a pound or two for a successful run will go to prison cheerfully for three years rather than turn King's evidence and earn a remission of their sentences, this wealthy drug merchant, who had been living on the trade for twenty years, willingly gave away the remainder of the gang on the promise of a slight reduction of his sentence.  By this means six more leading lights of Cairo and Alexandria were arrested and sentenced to long terms of imprisonment. and heavy fines, and for some time there was a definite shortage on the hashish market in the capital.

 

The trade in the drug, which started immediately the law prohibited its import some fifty years ago, will probably continue for all time unless the League of Nations can bring pressure to bear on the hashish-producing countries.  It costs little or nothing to grow and will sell at from £30 to £60 a kilo in Cairo; so that with profits such as these obtainable there will always be contrabandists prepared to run a very small risk for a large sum, and the deserts will always provide the Arabs who will run a much greater risk for little more than a day's wage.  They possess no property to be sold up to pay a fine, and as to them time means nothing, a sentence of penal servitude holds no terrors and no sense of irremediable waste of fife's short span         

 

 

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